Big Skies

A few days in Cromwell

I should be on a beach in Samoa but instead I am walking along a path, lake to one side, mountains to the other. A head of me is the other half walking the dog who bounces along completely indifferent to the inflatable collar that he is wearing. It is the end of a recovery period from him after some surgery (nothing serious). All in the family will be glad when the cone is off as we are tiring of his lack of awareness as he charges pass you. We are all a bit bruised from this behaviour. It is cold and it is quiet where I am and while Samoa* would be warmer I have a feeling this is where I need to be. A place for walks, food and reading.

Our drive inland from the coast to central Otago was one filled with awe. I had forgotten about the clouds here. I had forgotten about how wide and open the land is. And then there are the colours. A range of unspeakable hues and tones that are both delicious and haunting at the same time. It is a bold landscape that we drive through. I spent time in the car as we drive, transfixed by sky and land. Photos are taken through mucky window. The other half adjusts the driving, kindly slowing down round a bend as I try to capture what I am seeing, amused no doubt by my squeals of delight. We stop in Ranfurly, a country town of quiet wide streets and stand mesmerized by the clouds that look like an oyster shell in the sky. It scales is impressive.

We stay at a little cabin that looks to the lake and quickly fall into a routine not bound by time. Part of the day see us drive to nearby towns, all of which have a different vibe to the bustle of high summer. You feel like you are the only one about. This impression is further cemented by the number of vineyards and restaurants that are closed for the winter. No body much comes here at this time of year and for some reason this feels like the perfect time to visit. In the evenings we enjoy a wood fire hot tub. The stars are amazing. Little diamond like jewels on a bed of inky velvet. We talk as we soak and then pause lost in the magnificence of it all. I love how a night sky can humble you in that way.

The ease of the self created routine is what I cherish most from the holiday. We woke, walked dog, read, ate and of course the already mentioned drives. It’s relaxed nature was much needed and the landscape warmed my heart. Mountain ranges look like a freshly baked cake, their ridges, lightly dusted with icing sugar. Each morning I watched as the snow line quietly creeps down further the hillsides, adding a slice of more iciness to the air as it does. Lakes were varying blues that hint at the cold beneath. A few trees still hold their autumn leaves, a splash of vibrant gold against a tawny winter landscape. It was all stunning in it’s quiet beauty. It made me realise that sometimes that break you need is just really a drive down the road to see a landscape that you don’t visit every day.

*Don’t worry the trip to Samoa has been postponed to later in the year.